Borneo Blog :: tarap, durian, coconut milk

Today has been epic! 

I wanted to buy a cheap tarap as a last goodbye to this amazing fruit, so Des took me to Dongonggon Tamu on his motorcycle. On the way he took a detour to a different market near Cyber City apartments close to KK airport. 

This market did not have tarap, but it had an incredible coconut milking machine! I say milk, but it was thick like cream. Oh so good. I got a 500g bag but only drank half as I was already still full from breakfast (my new favourite avocado, coconut oil and soaked walnuts). 

I put the rest in the fridge when I got back but after checking it a few hours later it has turned sour! Seriously the fridge in this hostel is absolutely rubbish at keeping milk fresh! 

So after this we went to Dongonggon and I was so disappointed to find that the tarap was more expensive than what I found in KK the previous day... However, I did find a lady selling just 1 for 3 ringgit. It's not the cheapest I've paid but it was still cheap in my opinion. It isn't ripe until tomorrow. 

As the tarap has to wait until tomorrow I decided today would be my final durian in Sabah. I had only planned on getting one, but as I'm addicted I ended up buying 4... I got a tray labeled as Musang king, but if it was it was over ripe. It didn't taste as amazing as I expected based on other people's reviews... And so I bought 3 wild durian. One after the other of course, after each one I said "OK this is the last" but it is by far my favourite durian I've ever tried so I had to eat until I was 100% completely sure I couldn't eat any more. 

I feel good though, I definitely did not over do it like in Ranau. 

Then to top off the day nicely I had a chat with my Mum :) it's been a long time since we talked, mainly because she works and I'm 8 hours ahead of the UK. 

Borneo Blog :: learning Malay at a coconut stand

I spent a lot of time at the coconut stand. I have been going mainly to eat the thick fatty coconut meat instead of drinking the water and this is the best place to go for that. 

Although they don't speak much English we can still converse. I was being taught descriptive words because there are a lot of Americans in town. It turns out they're in the military on a ship and have come to drink beer and party.. 

The reason I was learning descriptive words is because every time a western man walks past the lady says to me "wow, look at him, strong!". People here seem to think I'm after a husband. So I played along. From that moment we were pointing out tall men (tinggi), short men (rendah), bald men (botak), etc. It was definitely a fun way to learn Malay. However, that's really the only thing I can say (as well as some pleasantries of course). 

I was asked to help out sell snacks, but it was so quiet... I shouted over to many Americans to come for a coconut but they either declined (for beer) or ignored my call. 

At least I got to spend more time with this family, who are always smiling and willing to chat. I keep being invited to stay at their house but I politely decline everytime. They're Muslim and I don't think my Western dress would be appropriate... 

Borneo Blog :: stay in bed!

I so want to go to the tamu today, but yesterday I started feeling ill like I've done too much in a short space of time. When you consider that my normal level of activity is to cycle to the market and back and perhaps walk around locally, then this week I've definitely done too much and shocked my system once again. 

My throat is sore and feels like it is producing phlegm, my head has a slight banging and now my right foot feels strained, the arch is painful when I walk. If that's not a sign for "stay in bed" then I don't know what is. 

However, my stubbornness and need for ripe fruit may just keep me from relaxing all day. Plus my love for a tamu. I'm in one of those predicaments. The only ripen fruit I have is durian... The bananas need at least 1 more day as well as the rollinia. I have a small bag of mangosteen that I'm keeping for eating after durian. 

I have a feeling the durian may have contributed to my illness too, so I keep thinking that I probably shouldn't be eating it. I would Google all of these things if the Internet wasn't switched off... That's the only downside to staying here. The Internet is turned off at night and then turned back on whenever someone remembers in the morning. Well I tend to get up really early and this is normally when I do my Internet things, like uploading photos, replying to YouTube comments (I've been slow this week) and doing some research before I head out (weather, maps, etc). 

I suppose the only plus side to this is that I've been reading more. I usually find distractions on the Internet so I don't read these hundreds of eBooks stored on my tablet. The astrology book is by far the most fascinating read I've had in a long time. I am finding out who I am according to the stars and it's scarily accurate. I am becoming more aware of my personality based on astrology and I am becoming more aware of other people. 

I hope that this enables me to grow even further and use this knowledge for good, trying to develop areas where I'm lacking, or perhaps classed as my weakness and then building upon my strengths. 

I love to learn and learning about myself is possibly the best thing I could do right now. 

PS I went to the tamu, felt a bit weak but I bought lots of greens and I've just eaten some. I think perhaps I'm missing many minerals so over the next few days I'll load up on greens. 

Borneo Blog :: Living alone

Ranau has been an amazing place to relax, build routines and be carefree and part of that has been due to living by myself. I previously spent 3 weeks in KK living in a shared dorm so it was a welcome relief. However, a couple came to stay this evening and as nice as it is to socialise I've realised how important it is for me to have my own space in the evenings. 

I think that's partly why I was a bit reluctant for my new friend Nelli to stay because having another person here disrupts my flow, and although I'm adaptable as a Virgo I'm still easily put off doing things I'd normally do. I kept thinking how awful I was for not wanting Nelli to stay, was I selfish? But she ended up canceling and moving on from Ranau. 

I'm still trying to understand myself and this is one of the issues I need to examine closer. I have always been in relationships where I'd want to move in with a guy, but recently I just want to be on my own. I can really see now why my mum is OK living alone... I just want to do the same! 

The day time is for socialising in my opinion, the evening is for winding down and sleeping. However, it seems that the night time is when people normally come alive. This was the case when I lived in the tree house in La Palma, I would be disturbed all night as I tried sleeping. Thankfully the couple didn't make too much noise, it was just the creaking of heavy footing on the floor boards that created a noise, but now I have to be conscious about what I do, especially using the Internet! (When I upload my YouTube videos I cannot do anything else and it gets switched off at night and whenever I leave, but these times are the best times for uploading my videos and photos) 

I am not sure what my next destination is but I know that I'd like to be in a quiet place away from people. I guess I am introverted and like alone a time great deal. 

Borneo Blog :: Poring Hot Springs

I got on my bike again with my cycling shoes and went to Poring Hot Springs. I didn't fall off but the left pedal is really tough to remove so I need to look at it again to make sure I have it on the easiest setting not the hardest! My hand still hurts from the fall when I do my morning stretches and yoga plus doing handstands  (which I don't do often because of the hand), so I hope it heals soon!

Poring means bamboo in Kadazandusun language, so there's no surprise that you'll find a lot of bamboo in this area. It's 19km from Ranau and most of that is downhill. However, the last 4km is up some steep hills and past some dogs so it's best to dismount if you're not an experienced cyclist. I find that when I walk with the bike I actually get a calf workout more than when I'm on the bike, so it's a bonus to walk sometimes.

The scenery of this area is incredible. Jungle, mountains, wooden houses, paddy fields, fruit trees, etc breathtaking and beautiful. However, when you travel by bicycle it's hard to pay attention to it all because sometimes the other road users are inconsiderate and there are potholes to look out for.

When I arrived I changed into my normal clothes and shoes and ate my lunch, which were banana date dogs (like a hot dog with the banana being the sausage and the date being the bun). So good, especially after cycling! Surprisingly I didn't eat them all so I kept them in the container for later (and that was a welcome relief!) I have had my dates since leaving the UK, they're my emergency fruit but it's not really that necessary in South East Asia unless you're only transiting between countries, but most of the time there's always fruit at the airports!

I headed to the tropical and orchid gardens. When I got there the man was saying there's not a lot to see. He was really off putting, which was strange because they charge money to see these gardens on top of the conservation fee you pay at the entrance, so I'd have thought they'd want some money! I paid and he was right, but I still saw some amazing greens and a pitcher plant I've never seen before in my life, so it was totally worth it! As the last guests to visit entered the gardens over 11 days ago I walked through so many cobwebs, it was horrible! I wished so much I had my leggings on. The tropical garden had a 700m trail, but after going 250m and through an aviary enclosure I wanted to get out asap! The cobwebs here were just insane! This is one of the reasons I'm reluctant to go into the jungle.

I think I spent an hour here even though it felt really quick, I did take lots of photographs in the orchid garden so that's probably why time disappeared so quickly.

After these gardens I walked to the hot springs entrance and went to the butterfly garden. The same thing happened when I was buying my ticket! As it was raining lightly the man said there's no butterflies, but I wanted to go anyway. The gardens were beautiful and I saw so many butterflies! I think they need to be trained better here to avoid putting tourists off!

There's a room with dried butterflies, some are stunning. The colours are fascinating, pearlescent beauty, it makes me wonder about mother nature. How she produces so many wonderful things. Then there's a room for bugs *shudders* they're gross! After this room is the butterfly enclosure where they vary in size and colour. I think it's quite sad that they're kept in a cage because they just fly up to the sky and want to get out. I think just like zoos this is quite cruel and I do wonder if I should have paid for it, but at the same time they're providing a safe environment for the butterflies to enjoy the plants there. It's one of those vegan issues that I should contemplate.

So the butterflies were amazing and I loved watching them. When I left the enclosure I was treated to more butterflies flying in the open. Wow. I love these creatures.

After the butterfly garden I went to the canopy walk. They charge you money to use your camera! Crazy. So I refused to pay and my time is just recorded in my memories. You'll have to take my word for it that it was incredible! At one point I fantasised about the ropes snapping, what would I do?! I loved looking at the trees above, producing a silhouette of leaves against the sky. Beautiful. Then I looked down and saw the water flowing. It was interesting to look down because I almost got frightened but I seemed to be OK once I accepted it.

Onto the hot springs. It's quite crappy in my opinion. They've built bath tubs to fill up with the water but it's really artificial and not very authentic. You can look at a natural spring but you cannot go in it. In Turkey you can go into numerous pools with rocks and the natural slime and even though some of that is man made (at least to make it usable by people) it still felt authentic. The bonus is I had a whole tub to myself! 

I made my tub really hot. Immediately I felt the benefits, my skin was even silkier, I felt so relaxed, even though I was unable to lay completely flat, and my muscles released all their tension. Ahhh bliss. I stayed in for about 30 minutes and then got changed into my cycling gear. 

The journey home was more fun as I got to go fast down the hills I climbed on the way, exhilarating. The steady inclines were not too challenging either. I gave myself 2 hours to get back and I did it in 1 hour 30 minutes so I was really pleased. 

Borneo Blog :: too much durian?

If you haven't been expecting this post I'd be surprised. So if you've been following my Instagram then you'll know I eat a lot of durian every day (pretty much since I got to Ranau). Therefore, it was inevitable that this day would come that I say perhaps I've been eating too much! :P 

This morning I didn't feel all that great in my stomach. I actually burped a bit of sick during my morning coconut. I thought perhaps I didn't leave enough time between dinner and breakfast. I've read some raw vegans leave at least 16 hours between their last meal and first meal. I think I left around 10 or 11 hours between my late salad and coconut. 

Yesterday I ate 1 normal durian, 1 wild durian and 2 packets of mixed durian, which together made me so full. It was an eyes bigger than my belly moment and I just couldn't resist, which makes me question whether durian is actually an addictive fruit. 

I was going to avoid eating durian today, but I went up to Kundasang with my new friend Nelli this morning and on the way back we stopped at a durian stall just outside of Ranau town. It had so many varieties like D24, D101, kura-kura, tembaga and many others. So I tried the D24 (Nelli thinks it wasn't actually D24) and I bought a kura-kura because someone on Facebook has asked me for the seeds. 

The kura-kura was actually quite poor, tasting like it may have been a day too old and it wasn't as sweet as the D24 I had. Then the lady at the stall offered us free durian so I had a few pieces and it was creamy and semi sweet. 

Early on before going to Kundasang I bought 4 wild durian. I left them at Nelli's hotel, which is opposite the market! Unfortunately one of them was so ripe it had cracked at all seams and was calling me with its scent, so I've just polished it off... 

Nelli has worked on some durian farms, collecting them in return for free food so she's had some amazing durian. She reckons the durian here doesn't taste as good as in Kuching (Sarawak) and I'm beginning to realise just how mediocre it is in comparison to wild durian, which packs a punch of flavours. I think from now on I'm just going to eat wild durian here in Ranau unless I'm presented with something amazingly sweet smelling. 

It's not that hard to pick it up around here, so fingers crossed I can continue to get some from the market. 

I've been planning my days this evening and I am thinking about cycling to the hot springs tomorrow to see the rafflesia flower (weather permitting). I've been sat around for too long, I need to get out and take some amazing photographs. There's a butterfly farm, orchid conservation centre, canopy walk and waterfalls at Poring, so it will be a long day in nature. I will pack my basket full of fruit so I will have the energy to see it all! 

I definitely want to see Kota Belud tamu on Sunday and proceed to Kudat, so I want to round off my time here in Ranau by doing the things I had planned to do when I was in KK. I just need to figure out the logistics of buses and taking my bicycle. If it's possible to cycle for part of my journey I am definitely interested in doing that! 

So even though I've eaten too much durian, I'm still going to to eat it but just wild durian because it's the most flavourful and apparently is lower in fat! 

Borneo Blog :: wild durian

Welcome to another blog post :) if you're new here I hope you have a chance to read my previous posts and I hope you stay tuned for more! If you're a regular then thank you for your loyalty, I hope to entertain and inspire you some more! 

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Saturday is the tamu day in Ranau and as always when I visit a fruit and vegetable market I am never disappointed! I couldn't believe how busy the street was, the normal market here rarely gets busy, I always feel like I'm the only one there so it was great to see more people occupy the small space in this town! 

I had a mission of finding a coconut and getting breakfast before I got to the serious business of buying some exotic fruits, but then I saw some wild durian and decided I had to buy it in case they disappear (in KK there was a champedak seller who literally sold out as he pulled up to the market!) 

May I present my durian finds for the day... 

Top left clockwise costs: 5 ringgit for 4, 10 ringgit for 3 and 10 ringgit for 3

I ate the durian from left to right 

So right about now would be a good time to name the durian, but I'm not exactly an expert yet and although I've read the posts by Lindsay on Year of the durian I am too lazy to go over the information again to give to you guys so you'll have to excuse me and just read about how they tasted. 

The first durian was just so tiny it falls into the category of being cute. It was the most fragrant, being able to smell it from far away and had the most flavour. The spikes were sharp but it was easy to handle and open because it had pretty much burst at the seams. 

This durian smelt like a tropical fruit punch, wonderfully aromatic and it made my senses go crazy! I just wanted to rip it open and eat it up so fast. The flesh to seed ratio is probably one of the worst I've experienced, but the flavour is so intense that all is forgiven! The texture was so dense, moisture was minimal and it reminded me of eating a rich cake. It tasted like chocolate. This was incredible! I have found nature's rich chocolate cake in a tiny durian. The Seeds were such a deep red colour too, probably the most beautiful seeds I've ever seen for a durian. 

Tasty, fragrant and beautiful 

The best things come in smaller packages 

The second durian was disappointing in comparison to the first one. It lacked fragrance and the taste was quite off-putting. However, I loved the appearance. It's just a green ball of long spikes that curl toward the seams, which makes it easy to spot the place to open it. The texture of this durian was moist, silky and smooth. The flavour can only be described as garlicky mashed potatoes, at least that's what it reminded me of. It was definitely interesting to eat and by the time I'd had the last one I was wanting more! 

I never expected it to taste like garlic! 

I'm not actually sure if the third durian is wild or just a local durian, but the spikes were similar in appearance to the first 2 so I just decided that it was wild! This durian is pretty much summed up by the word mild. Everything about it was mild, from the aroma to the flavour. The texture was in between the first 2 durian, slightly dense and slightly moist. This was the biggest as you can see and the flesh to seed ratio varied for each piece. There were a lot more seeds in this than normal durian (in my experience). I enjoyed this one because it filled me up more and it lasted more than 30 seconds! 

Bigger but milder 

My favourite durian for flavour was the first. My favourite durian for texture was the second. My favourite durian for satisfaction was the third. My favourite durian for appearance was the second. 

Overall my favourite durian was the first. Come on, nature's own rich chocolate cake! I had the most amazing durian experiences today and I cannot imagine anything better than this! 

Have you ever tired these durian before? Let me know if you have and what you thought.

Borneo Blog :: cover up with a hijab

Today I did something I never thought I'd do, inspired by a lady I met in Thailand last year I decided that I would cover up my body including my hair. 

After almost experiencing a sexual assault in Kota Kinabalu it made sense to try it and although I felt silly it felt empowering. However, the first few comments were not what I expected. I did this to almost blend in, to go unnoticed and be left alone, but as soon as I reached the market I heard people heckling "oh my god, beautiful!" 

Personally I felt ugly because sometimes I think my hair is what makes me pretty being golden blonde and all, but that wasn't the point! I didn't want people to make a fuss but of course a white woman wearing a hijab is going to generate attention. 

As I walked around to the rear of the market, where locals come and sell their produce, I had lots of stares, smiles, giggles, etc. I think perhaps one or two people talked about me in a negative tone but I've no idea what they said because I don't speak the language! 

One lady selling flowers came over to talk to me whilst I ate a really good papaya, she thought I was a local until she saw my face and then she was excited to practice her English. She very kindly gave me her English-Malay book because she thinks I should learn Malay. My dedication to languages is appalling but I do like this country and will probably visit regularly so it's only right to at least try! 

So after the market I went home and stayed home for the rest of the day. It was the hottest, clearest day today so I couldn't stand the heat in the clothes and hijab. I took it off around 3pm because I was just sweating profusely. 

It was definitely an interesting experience and I got excited about the different colours, accessories and clothes I could wear, but after posting on my Facebook page and having someone comment about the body I realised I don't want to cover up. Sure I should be more considerate and respectful of other cultures and religions, but I'm all about being natural. Let me quote Dane who replied to my post 

"I see nothing wrong with our bodies as they naturally are, and I think if someone has some sort of problem simply seeing another persons body, then they most likely have mental/emotional issues, or at the very least some strange ideas running through their mind. I think perhaps it would be better for these people to deal with their issues rather than have everyone cover up so that these people can happily ignore their issues and never have to face it... In fact I think covering up is what causes so much of the problem in the first place, it kind of makes a problem out of nothing, if everyone grew up seeing other peoples bodies all the time, it's highly unlikely they would have a problem with it, but because people cover up, then its becomes a big deal if people uncover themselves."

Borneo Blog :: durian orchard tour

I've relocated to Ranau, home of durian. It takes between 2-3 hours to arrive here by coach, depending on the traffic. There are many steep hills and if you get caught behind a lorry then the journey time increases! 

I'm in a homestay that has 7 rooms, but I'm the only person here! I have 3 bathrooms, a large living area and dining area, kitchen (with so many pink plates, bowls, cups! My kind of living!!) and balcony. It's awesome compared to the hostel. Also the temperature is lower due to being higher up, which is a welcome relief. I have been wearing my jumper and leggings so I appreciate having them (I've been wondering if I'd ever use them in the tropics!). 

The owner of the property also owns an orchard and when I told her daughter (Sherry) I love durian she immediately suggested taking me to see it. Unfortunately on my first day here it rained heavily, which cancelled the trip. However, I visited this afternoon. 

We took some very long battered roads. It's as if the council has forgotten that there's roads there because it hasn't been well maintained. Pot holes, bumps and huge chunks of tarmac are missing, which makes it hazardous and if you don't concentrate you could easily damage your car. 

When we arrived there were rows of papaya trees lining the entrance with huge fruit dangling from them, all green. It was muddy due to the rain so I took a stick to help my descent. I guess at this point I should mention that it was very steep, I don't envy the job of the workers because they have to navigate the orchard every day in all weathers carrying durian up these steep hills. 

The workers still use traditional baskets for carrying durian up the steep slopes

There were coffee trees, bananas, langsat, salak (snake fruit), mangosteen, coconuts, rambutan, another fruit similar to longon, some jungle fruit and of course durian. 

From top left clockwise : coffee, banana, langsat, fruit similar to longon (unknown name) and salak 

The views were incredible. It was amazing to see the durian hanging off the trees and then spotting empty branches where they've fallen to the ground set amidst a backdrop of steep mountainous landscapes. Breathtaking. 

Unfortunately I wasn't fully prepared because my camera battery plus spare ran out of power! So did my action camera. I am pretty sure I got all I could though. The weather wasn't fantastic either so the lighting was poor. 

Once we had had enough of walking around the muddy slopes of the orchard we returned to the entrance, where there is a large wooden building, and sampled some durian. My favourite part! Unfortunately Sherry forgot to call ahead of time to arrange for them to have ripe durian for me, but we did have 1 ripe durian to share (well I say we, Sherry and her daughter don't like durian, but her husband does!). 

Doesn't it just look so creamy and beautiful?! 

Apparently the people who work in the orchard don't see tourists often so they were excited that I came, that might be why they gave me a whole basket of durian to take back with me! I think it's 10 durians to be exact. I will be in durian heaven soon. It needs to ripen over 1 or 2 days. 

I have forgotten the durian variety, it's very pale, creamy and tastes like vanilla. Incredible. Sherry said the fruits are mainly round. I will update you when I eat the ones I have.